Anyone who lives here knows it: on Lake Como the weather can turn in a couple of hours, especially in this upper part of the lake where the narrow mountains give you spectacular views and sudden downpours in equal measure. If you are planning a holiday around Dervio, Bellano, Varenna or Colico and you are wondering what to do on Lake Como when it rains, I can promise you the Alto Lario does not shut down. It just changes rhythm, and sometimes the show is even better.
The weather here turns fast: my rule as a local
After many years running the Residence Dorio I have learned not to trust generic forecasts for Lake Como: the microclimate of the Alto Lario, squeezed between the Grigne and the mountains of the Valsassina, often behaves differently from the lower lake. A practical tip: before you decide the plan for the day, look at the webcams of the nearby villages such as Bellano, Dervio or Colico, and always keep a plan B within reach, because here the sun can come back after a couple of hours.
Indoor things to do between Dervio, Bellano and around
The Orrido di Bellano, even better in the rain
One place I always recommend, rain or shine, is the Orrido di Bellano: the gorge carved by the Pioverna stream, with walkways and stretches partly sheltered by the rock. When it rains the torrent swells and the water crashing between the walls becomes an even more powerful sight. One caveat: after very heavy rain the route can be closed for safety, so check on the spot or by phone before setting off.
Piona Abbey, a pocket of calm
A little further north, on the Olgiasca peninsula near Colico, Piona Abbey is a perfect place for a bad-weather day: the cloister, the Romanesque church and the interiors offer a moment of quiet away from the tourist bustle. It is a spot we locals love precisely because, when it rains, it stays almost deserted and you can enjoy the silence unhurried.
Museums and exhibitions in Lecco and Como
If you do not mind going a bit further, some twenty minutes by car or train bring you to Lecco, with its museums tied to Manzoni and the history of the town, or to Como, where the cathedral, the civic art gallery and the silk museum tell another side of this area, less about the lake and more about local culture.
An idea few visitors know: the Valtellina train
Let me share a small local secret: on rainy days one of the loveliest ways to enjoy the landscape without getting wet is to board the regional train that links Lecco to Sondrio and Tirano, running along the eastern shore and calling at Varenna, Bellano, Dervio and Colico. From the window you catch glimpses of the lake and the mountains that you would never notice from a car, and the ticket costs a fraction of an organised excursion. It is how my father used to take me to see the lake in a different way when I was a boy and the weather allowed nothing else.
Food and slow afternoons under a roof
The Alto Lario also lives on small farms and dairies which, by appointment, open their doors for indoor tastings: mountain dairies in the Valsassina and the Valvarrone, wineries producing local wines, small honey and alpine cheese producers. I am not naming names, because availability shifts from season to season, but the advice is simple: ask locally, or just ask us at the Residence, and we will point you to whoever is open and happy to receive visitors even in bad weather.
And if the plan collapses, the Residence Dorio is a decent refuge
When the rain settles in for a whole afternoon, staying inside the Residence Dorio can be pleasant in itself: our apartments have comfortable space to read, to cook something good bought at the market without rushing, or simply to watch the lake transform under the rain from the covered veranda. If you are considering a stay in the Alto Lario and want a practical, quiet base close to all these bad-weather alternatives, you are very welcome: write to us and we will help you plan the holiday with the forecast in mind. More ideas for the area are on our Experiences page.
